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Poultry Show Preparation

 


What To Expect at Your First Poultry Show

Going to your first poultry show can be exciting, but somewhat nerve-wracking. What am I supposed to do? How do I “show” a chicken anyway? Where do I go, and when? What do I do when I get there? What will the judge do/say/think about my birds?

Believe me, it seems complicated at first, but it’s really easy once you know the routine, and a lot of fun! Chicken
people are great to show with, and chicken shows are much easier than almost any other kind of animal show. All you have to do is get your bird in the cage, the judges and clerks do the rest! But there’s a lot of preparation to do
beforehand, and in this article I’ll try to walk you through what you need to do.

At lot of what you have to do before a show is prep work, and it has to start long before the show itself
Read below on conditioning and prepping for show.

But even before you’ve gotten your birds conditioned and prepped, there are some things you need to do. The first is to determine the date and location of the show you want to attend. An easy way to find out info about poultry shows is to subscribe to The Poultry Press, which is the monthly newspaper about the exhibition poultry fancy. It’s a great resource for show info, as well as informative articles about poultry husbandry. Two great magazines include Fancy Fowl and Backyard Poultry, which have lots of great tips and tricks for both the newcomer and the seasoned shower.

Once you figure out which show you want to go to, you need to obtain an entry form and/or show catalog. The entry form is key, you need to fill it out fully and have it back before the deadline so that the show secretary can determine how many birds will be at the show, and make cage cards for them all.

So let’s say you’ve filled in your entry form, sent it off, and it’s the day before the show. Some shows are one-day shows, others are two-day shows. For a two-day show you might want to consider making a hotel reservation (for larger shows it’s important to do this well in advance, as hotels can get filled up!) For a one-day show you might
want to drive there early the day of, but be sure to leave yourself plenty of time to “coop in” your birds (put them in their cages and ensure they are ready to show.)

Before you leave, be sure to grab your health forms. Most poultry shows require entrants to be tested for Pullorum/Typhoid, and some require testing for Avian Influenza as well. That info will be in the show catalogue.
Most states have a testing program (which varies from state to state), which will fall under the State Veterinarian’s Office. You will need to call your State Vet several weeks before the show date to find out what you have to do to have your birds blood tested before the show. Once you’ve had that done the paperwork is usually good for between 30 to 90 days, so should serve you for the upcoming shows.

Ok, you’ve got your paperwork done (entries, health forms), got your birds prepped and packed up, and are off to
the show. Once you arrive, what then? First thing to do is check in with the show secretary. They will have a list of
exhibitors, each with their own number. This number will tell you where to put your birds. Figure out your number, and then go and find your cages. Cages are set up according to Classes (American, Continental, English etc. for
Large Fowl; Single Comb Clean Legged, Feather Legged and so on for Bantams.) Once you find the Class in which
your bird belongs, you’ll see the Breeds (Dutch Bantam, Silkie, Buckeye, and so on.) Breeds are broken down further by gender: Cock, Hen, Cockerel, Pullet. So look for the cages that have your number on them, in the genders and breeds and classes for each of your birds. Note that some shows require leg bands on each bird, and put the leg band
number on the specific cage, others just designate exhibitor numbers and let you decide in which cage to put your specific bird.

Once you’ve figured out which cages to put your birds into, there are a couple of things to do before you pop them in there. You might want to make sure there are enough shavings in each cage, most shows are very generous with shavings, but it isn’t a bad idea to bring a bale of your own just in case you’d like to put some more in (especially
important for feather legged breeds.) You will see water cups in each cage, and again, it’s a good idea to bring some extras just in case, as you may wish to put feed in one cup (rather than scatter it on the floor) and water in another, which is more important for two-day shows than one-day shows. (Note it’s best not to give birds too much food to eat before showing, having a full crop ruins the look of a sleek, show-ready bird. So hold off on food before judging
at a one day show, and give small amounts the night before a two-day show.) Bringing your own food and water is always a good idea, just in case.

Some caveats about cooping in: it is considered bad form (and against ABA/APA rules) to enhance the cages your
birds are in so as to distinguish your birds from other peoples birds. So don’t write your name on any cage cups, don’t put up opaque barriers between your birds and those next to them (clear plastic can be used, but it’s important that the judge can look down the aisle and see all the birds.) As well, it is never ok to bring birds that are sick or have parasites to a show, it’s not fair to other exhibitors, and you may wind up having to remove your birds and go home if the show superintendant or judges discover it.

Once your cages are set up, take each bird out and look it over before putting it in the cage. You may want to check its feet for dirt, give its feathers a going over with a clean cloth (some folks use silk to shine their birds up well), inspect its eyes and nose and beak and toenails and vent to be sure everything is perfect before judging. Then when you’re sure the bird is ready to go, pop it in the cage, and go onto the next. When all the birds are cooped in and
watered, your work for now is done! Go find a cup of coffee or a cold drink, introduce yourself to some other exhibitors (most poultry show people are very nice and welcoming to new exhibitors), and find a place to sit. For now until judging is done, there’s nothing else for you to do. Most judges prefer that exhibitors stay clear of the aisles in which they are judging, so as not to distract them. If you like you can “cage hang” and peer at the judge from the
next aisle over, but best to do so discretely if you feel you must.

Once the judging is done, you can go back over to your cage and see how you’ve done. Reading a cage card can seem confusing at first, I’ve written two whole articles on what the markings mean, see them here: Cage Cards 1 and here: Cage Cards 2

With luck, you’ve won something wonderful! Awards and trophies are given out at the end of the show, and if you’
ve won one, your exhibitor name will be called out and you can go up and collect your winnings. But even if you
didn’t win the first time, don’t be disappointed, it’s a learning experience, and with luck you’ve met some other people who work with the breeds you do, and asked them questions and looked at their birds. Breeding good birds to win shows with takes time, and practice, and hatching a lot of birds! Once you win that first trophy it will make the hard work feel like it was all worthwhile. And in the meantime, you’ll have fun learning and showing. Best of luck to you, and may all your birds be healthy!

Show Preparation
Conditioning & Prepping for Shows

The first thing to remember about preparing to show your birds is that good feather quality doesn’t come
overnight, it must be grown, and it takes six to ten weeks to grow new feathers. Proper feather growth is created by proper nutrients: food with the right balance of amino acids and proteins; and clean, abundant water, both to drink and to keep feathers clean and conditioned. Conditioning should happen all year long, there’s no way to take a bird with poor feathers and make him show ready in the space of a week.

We use feeds with protein levels between 18 and 20% (lower for large fowl, higher for bantams.) We try to keep our birds on grass if we can (feather-footed breeds can be successfully kept on grass if they’re in pens you rotate regularly so they’re not stepping in their own poop.) The moisture from dew is important for feather quality, if your birds are in pens which don’t get access to the outdoors, misting birds once a week or so in warm weather will help a lot.

Parasite control on a regular basis is also key. Birds with worms or mites will not have good body condition, which may not be obvious when seen from outside the cage, but which a judge will feel when he picks the bird up. Ideally you should check your birds at least once a week for external parasites, and worm them as dictated by your conditions (different housing exposes birds to different parasites, some birds may never need to be
wormed.) If they show signs, de-mite/de-worm them with your product of choice (there are many options for de-worming and treating for mites, too many to go into here.)

Once you’ve gotten your conditioning routine down, and have a show date on your calendar, here are some things you can do to prep for a show:

- About two weeks before the show, have your state NPIP tester come and test your birds. Some shows will let you test as you arrive, but then you may have bloodstains on your neatly washed birds, better to do them beforehand.

- About a week before, clean out all pens/coops/cages in which your birds live. Re-bed deeply with clean pine shavings (cleaning out pens regularly makes this task easier than if you use the deep bedding method.) Hay, straw, and cedar shavings should be avoided as they are unsuitable for bedding (mold and/or odor problems.)

- About a week before, if you have cages, put the birds into them to get them used to being caged. Practice taking the birds in and out of the cage (always headfirst!) so that it is comfortable with the process. Treats help with this. A piece of wood as a perch helps the birds get used to being caged. Leave them in there for several days (with food and water, of course!) then wash them.

- About seven to five days before the show, wash your birds. Assemble the following tools:


 


- Teo to three pails or large buckets
- One large towel per bird
- Dog nail clippers
- Dog nail file
- An old toothbrush
- An old washcloth or other rag
- Blood stop powder, or cayenne powder (in case you nick a quick)
- Carriers deeply bedded with clean shavings
- Hair dryer (if it's cool outside)
- Dish soap or some sort of show shampoo (better to use something like Ivory than Dawn, which strips too much oil from the feathers)
- Apple cider vinegar
- Bluing (only use if you have white birds, and not too much!)
- Crates deeply bedded with shavings to put the birds into for the final drying time.

Fill the buckets with warm but not too hot water. Put some ACV into the second bucket (not too much, just enough to cut the soap) and if you are washing white birds, several drops of bluing into the third. Gently lower the bird into the first bucket (but do not cover the head), swishing it up and down to get the feathers wet. Put some soap into your hand and gently brush it onto the bird, stroking in the direction of the feathers, not against the grain. Work the soap in, paying attention to the vent area and the toes. Be careful with soap around the eyes,
best to just use a washcloth to wipe the head area. Use the toothbrush to scrub the toes and legs, get all the crud off of them.


 


Transfer the bird to the second bucket, swishing up and down to get the soap off. Then put into the third bucket for a final rinse. Wrap the bird in a towel, leaving the head and feet sticking out. Sit with it on your lap (you will get wet) and gently trim toes and beak (no judge likes to be scratched.) Use the file on the beak to remove sharp edges and refine the look. Wipe around eyes again with the towel. Using the warm (not hot) setting on the blow dryer, dry the chicken so that it is almost dry (you won't get it all the way dry.) Place it into the crate with
shavings in a warm, non-drafty place to finish drying (this may take several hours.) We find we can do between six to eight birds per day effectively (run out of crates!) Once the bird is completely dry, return it either to the cage or its clean pen.)


 


To take to the show:

- Your NPIP form, and health certificates if needed.
- Food and water for all your birds. It sometimes helps them to drink if you start adding ACV to their water several weeks before the show, so if you run out of your own water you can add some ACV to the water at the show and the birds will recognize the taste.
- Extra shavings, just in case (if you have room.)
- Some Baby Oil or Vaseline, for putting around eyes and beaks to make them shine (not too much!)
- Some folks use Pink Spray, or Show Sheen to spray their birds with, I find it tends to attract dust (and I don't care for the smell.) You decide.
- Paper towels, you never know if you'll need some.
- Baby wipes to remove any last minute stains.

I’m sure there are some things I’ve left out, I’m not an expert, this is just a compilation of things we’ve learned over the years. Modify to suit your own situation, nothing is written in stone. And best of luck to you at your shows!

How It's All Laid Out

Poultry shows are generally open to three types of fowl recognized by the American Poultry Association. Turkeys and waterfowl are shown at most shows, but we will focus on chickens here as they are by far the most common type of fowl at most shows.
 

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Reading APA Show Cards One

Newcomers to showing often are confused by what the cage card markings mean at the end of the day. It’s relatively simple, but if you’re new to showing it can be confusing at first. This article will go over the basics.

All poultry accepted into the ABA and/or APA Standard of Perfection fall under certain categories. From the top down they are: Class, Breed, Variety, Gender. For example, if you have a Black Cochin Bantam young female, she’d
be classified as follows:

Class: Featherleg
Breed: Marans
Variety: Black
Sex: Pullet


Remembering that there are four genders for birds is helpful (strange as that may sound to a new fancier.) A male
over one year of age is a Cock, a female over one year of age is a Hen, a male under one year of age is a Cockerel,
and a female under one year of age is a Pullet. These designations are written as: C,H,K,P on cage cards.

So you arrive at your first show and are unsure what to do? Check in with the show secretary and get an exhibitor’s list.
That will have your number on it. All birds are identified on cage cards by their owner’s number, not name (to keep things completely fair during judging.) Next you must find the Class in which your bird is, so for your little

Marans bird, that would mean Featherleg. Often this is abbreviated as FLEG on a cage card. Once you find the row
of cages with the Featherlegs, look for the breed Marans. Then search for the Variety Black Copper  (colors are referred to as
Varieties.) Then look for gender, seeking out the Pullets. Finally, look for a cage in the Pullet section with your exhibitor number on it. In your bird goes!

After the judge has finished and you may enter the aisle (don’t do so while he or she is actually judging), and take a look at the cage card for your bird. There may be any number of markings, or even nothing at all. Here’s a breakdown of what some of the markings may mean:



 
Photo Courtesy Fowl Visions.com
 
 

-        A number like 1 or 2 or 3 means you have the first, second, or third of that gender in that breed. So if your Marans has a 1 on her card, she was the best Black Copper Marans Pullet.
-        BV stands for Best Variety. That means that of all the genders of that color, or Variety, your bird was the best.
-        RV stands for Reserve of Variety. That means of all the genders of that color, or Variety, your bird was the second best.
-        BB stands for Best of Breed. That means of all the birds of all the Varieties within the breed itself (Black Copper Marans, in this example), your bird was the best.
-        RB stands for Reserve of Breed. That means of all the birds of all the Varieties within the breed itself (Black Copper Marans, in this example), your bird was the second best.
-        CH FLEG stands for Champion Featherleg. That means of all the birds of all the Varieties of all the Breeds that compose the Featherleg Class, your bird was the best. An achievement to be proud of.
-        RCH FLEG stands for Reserve Champion Featherleg. That means of all the birds of all the Varieties of all the
Breeds that compose the Featherleg Class, your bird was the second best. Also an achievement to be proud of.
-        CH Bantam stands for Champion of the Bantam class, which means that your bird was the best Bantam bird in the entire show. Reason to celebrate indeed!
-        RCH Bantam stands for Reserve Champion of the Bantam class, which means that your bird was the second best Bantam bird in the entire show. Reason to celebrate as well!
-        GCH of Show stands for Grand Champion of the entire show, including Large Fowl, Bantams, and Waterfowl.
A rare honor, sought after by many.
-        RGCH of Show stands for Reserve Grand Champion, number two bird of the entire show including LargeFowl,Bantams, and Waterfowl. Also a rare honor.

I hope this sheds some light on what all those markings mean on cage cards at a show, and makes the judging
process a bit clearer. Some judges will make additional comments on the cards which are pretty self-explanatory.
Best of luck to you all at your next show!



Making Sense of Cage Card Markings, Part Two

Once you’ve figured out the basics of the things you’ll find on cage cards, then you need to understand some of the
other abbreviations for terms a judge may mark on your card (most of them not good to see.) Included in this list, in
no particular order are:

-  DQ: this stands for Disqualified, the worst thing you can see on a cage card.

-   DF: this stands for defect, although more often you’ll see the specific term like those that follow here.

-   Stubs: this means your bird has feather stubs on its toes where none should be (ala a clean legged bird.)

-   TF: twisted feather, means your bird’s feather or feathers twists at the root, a defect.

-   Mites: this means your bird has external parasites that need to be removed/treated for, also see Lice.

-   EC: this refers to improper eye color for the breed or variety.

-   Con or Cond: this refers to Condition, which may mean your bird needs to be washed, have toes or beak
trimmed, or other similar measures taken.

-    Light: this means your bird likely has worms, which would make it very thin and literally light (not heavy), which the judge can feel.

-    WGT or WT: this could refer to a bird that is too large or small for its breed, or could refer to being “light”, as above. When in doubt, ask the judge or clerk.

-    Size: this generally means the bird is too large or small for its breed standard.

-    LC or Leg Color: this means the bird does not have the proper leg color for its breed.

-    SP Wing/ SPL W/ SW: this means the bird has an improper space between the two portions of its wing, the
primary and secondary feathers.

-    SS: this stands for Side Sprig, which is a bump on the side of a comb (usually Single Comb) that should not be
there.

-    WT or Tail: this stands for Wry Tail, which is one that bends to the side rather than staying straight.

-    ST: this stands for Squirrel Tail, which means the angle of the tail in relation to the back is too high.

-     RB: this stands for Roach Backed, which means the back of the bird curves incorrectly.

-    Toe: this usually means a missing toenail or inadequate toe feathering (for feather footed breeds.)

-    NW: this stands for Not Worth, which means just plain not a good bird at all, not worthy of being judged or
shown.

-    Age: this stands for a bird that is too young to be shown, or entered improperly (ala an obvious cock bird
shown as a cockerel and so on.)

-    Keel: this generally means the bird has a crooked keel (breast bone.)

-    Hock: this refers to a bird that is either Cow Hocked (knock kneed), or Vulture Hocked when it should not be
for the breed.

-    Comb: this refers to a comb that is incorrect for the breed or variety, as in a lopped comb in a non-
Mediterranean breed.

-    Spurs: this refers to a complete absence of spurs on adult males.

-    Beak: this can be used if the bird has a twisted beak.

-    EL or Ear Lobe: this is used when the color of the bird’s ear lobe is not correct for the breed.

-    White: this is used when there is positive white in feathers where it should not be.

-    HF or Hen Feathered: this refers to a male bird that shows no characteristic male feathering for his breed (note
that in some breeds the males are meant to be hen feathered.)

This is not an exhaustive list, but should cover most of the things a judge might write on your cage card at a show.



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