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Hatching eggs issues
Hatching egg storage period

Eggs saved for hatching are very perishable and their viability is greatly affected by the quality of storage conditions. If properly stored, the number of hatching failures can be kept to a minimum. It is recommended that most eggs be stored no longer than 1 week. Storing eggs longer will produce a greater incidence of hatching failures.

The maximum storage period for chickens is about 3 weeks. Some turkey eggs will survive for 4 weeks, but quail will have difficulty developing from eggs stored longer than 2 weeks.

Hatching eggs should be collected soon after lay and maintained at 50-65o F. The eggs must not warm to above 65o F. unless they are being prepared for immediate incubation. Relative humidity in the storage facility should be maintained at 70 percent and daily egg turning or repositioning is recommended to prevent the yolk from sticking to the inside surface of the shell.

Refer to one of the incubation related publications listed previously for a more thorough discussion on hatching egg storage.
 

Candling Eggs

Eggs are candled to determine the condition of the air cell, yolk, and white. Candling detects bloody whites, blood spots, or meat spots, and enables observation of germ development. Candling is done in a darkened room with the egg held before a light. The light penetrates the egg and makes it possible to observe the inside of the egg.

The candler should be set on a box or table at a convenient height (about 38 to 44 inches from the floor), so the light will not shine directly into the eyes of the operator. In candling, the egg is held in a slanting position with the large end against the hole in the candler. The egg is grasped by the small end and, while held between the thumb and tips of the first two fingers, is turned quickly to the right or left. This moves the contents of the egg and throws the yolk nearer the shell. Because of the color of their shells, brown eggs are more difficult to candle than white eggs.

To do a reasonable job, an extensive knowledge of candling is not necessary, particularly if the eggs are all relatively fresh. One should be able to distinguish a fresh egg from a stale egg and detect such abnormalities as bloody whites, blood spots, meat spots, and cracked shells. In a fresh egg, the air space is plainly visible and moves freely. The white is thin and clear. In a stale egg, the air space is plainly visible and moves freely. The white is thin.

Most newly laid eggs are good quality. Eggs not over two or three days old, if held under good conditions, will meet the specifications for Grade A. The only eggs to be removed by candling are those with bloody whites, blood or meat spots, and cracked shells.

Candling Incubated Eggs

Incubated eggs are candled to determine whether they are fertile and, if fertile, to check the growth and development of the embryo. White eggs should be tested for fertility on the third day. Brown shelled eggs on the fifth or sixth day because it is difficult to see the embryo clearly before this time.

A small reddish area with blood vessels extending away from it will be visible in fertile eggs. This is the embryo floating around inside the egg, looking like a huge red spider. If the embryo dies, the blood draws away from the embryo and forms what is called a blood ring. All clear eggs and eggs showing blood rings or streaks should be removed from the incubator. If eggs are not candled during the early stages of incubation, it will be difficult to determine whether the egg was fertile; embryos that die early soon decompose and are not easily distinguished from rotten eggs.
 
 
 
 
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Coming soon -Incubating & Hatching Marans
Which came first the chicken or the egg?  Ask that question to 10 people and you  are more likely to get 10 different answers.  So here at MOAC we're not going to ask. But we do want to help try and hatch the eggs that our dear marans have  laid  for us. We just hope that this beginning guide can help you along the way. We hope to be added some specifics to our incubation page to  help with the hatching of marans eggs.  We would also like to invite others to share their own special hatching techniques with marans egg. Just send us an email to info@maransofamericaclub.com
 
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COMMON INCUBATION PROBLEMS:  CAUSES AND REMEDIES

R. A. Ernst, F.A. Bradley, M.E. Delany, U.K. Abbott and R.M. Craig
Animal Science Department, University of California, Davis, CA 95616

Observation:   Excessive infertility for species

PROBLEM

CAUSES

REMEDIES

True infertility [Definition]
Poor insemination technique Inseminate more frequently at proper depth with good semen
Hens not inseminated, wrong male to female ratio Inseminate hens; replace males; use more males
Preferential mating in pen matings Mate hen with different male
Male sterility Change males
Males not mating Check for disease, nutrition problems, foot problems and social dominance of females
Males too old Use young males; reinforce natural with artificial insemination if old, valuable males must be used

Observation:  Over 3% dead 1st 3 days of incubation

PROBLEMS

CAUSES

REMEDIES

Pre-oviposital death [Definition]

  

Inbred strains Avoid excessive inbreeding; use young males
Parthenogenesis in turkeys Do not use as breeders, toms and/or hens showing high incidence of parthenogenesis
Fertile, no development (FND) [Definition] Eggs stored at too low temperature Store hatching eggs properly (550F to 680F) see PFS No. 22
Eggs stored too long Store chicken, pheasant, duck, goose and quail eggs no longer than one week; turkey and partridge eggs no longer than two weeks
Eggs washed at too high temperatures Dry clean eggs; eliminate dirties; lower temperatures of wash water slightly; produce clean eggs
Positive development (PD) [Definition] Poor collection schedule during hot or cold weather When temperature in house or nest box exceeds 80� F, collect eggs several times during the day
Blastoderm without embryo (BWE) [Definition] Improper storage temperature Store eggs properly (55� F to 68� F) see PFS No. 22
Cystic embryos [Definition] Eggs stored too long Store chicken, pheasant, duck, goose and quail eggs no longer than one week; turkey and partridge eggs no longer than two weeks
Rough handling or shipping procedures Careful handling from time eggs are gathered until chicks or poults are hatched
Diseased flock (e.g. mycoplasmas, Newcastle disease) Inspect flock for general and specific health conditions
Aged or abnormal spermatozoa Check insemination technique; use young males
Eggs from inbred flock Some losses are unavoidable with inbreeding; change males and/or introduce new genetic stock
Improper egg storage temperature or pre-incubation temperature Do not allow eggs to pre-incubate; use correct setter temperature (99.5� F); check egg storage temperature
Eggs from hens housed above 5,000 feet Avoid high altitude

Observation:  Over .5% Dead day 4 to transfer

PROBLEMS

CAUSES

REMEDIES

Many dead embryos Improper temperature Check thermometer for accuracy
Unknown power failure If power fails open machine until power is restored
Improper turning Turn eggs three or more times each day
Eggs from inbred stocks Avoid excessive inbreeding
Poor ventilation of hatchery or incubator Provide proper air exchange
Disease or infected eggs Use eggs from disease-free flocks; Do not wash eggs in cold water

Observation:  Over 8% dead after transfer

PROBLEMS

CAUSES

REMEDIES

Embryos dying before pipping Low temperature incubating conditions; humidity too high. Maintain 99.5� F dry-bulb, 86� F wet-bulb temperature in fan ventilated setter
Infected eggs Do not wash eggs in cold water; set only nest clean eggs
Poor nutrition of breeder flock Check breeder diet; nearly all known vitamins and minerals, if absent or in short supply, can cause late mortality and poor chick quality
Certain genetic lethals Use vigorous strains
Embryos weak and fail to  pip or pip weakly

Vitamin E deficiency

 Use fresh feed or supplement Vitamin E in water
Many pips stuck to shell Hatcher humidity too low Maintain 90� F wet-bulb temperature after pipping begins
Excessive residual albumen caused by high humidity and/or low temperature incubation Check thermometers and thermostats; monitor temperature and humidity
Chicks pipped and dead Disease Use disease free stock
Overheating in hatcher; low hatcher humidity Check hatcher temperature and humidity
Nutritional deficiency Feed balanced diet
Malpositions [Definition] Eggs set small-end up Position eggs properly in trays (large end up or horizontal)
Chicks hatch too early, are thin and noisy Temperature too high during incubation period Check thermometer; 1� F in excess of 99.5� F will cause approximately 24-hour earlier hatch
Chicks hatch late, are soft and lethargic Temperature too low and humidity too high during incubation period Check thermometer; 1� F below 99.5� F will cause late hatch
Old eggs Set only fresh eggs; allow extra time for hatch by setting old eggs early
Sudden losses at any time Improper fumigation Do not fumigate between 24 and 96 hours of incubation.
Mercury spilled in incubator or hatcher Check for broken thermometer or thermostat; clean up all spilled mercury immediately
Power or equipment failure or overheating

Check incubator temperature at least twice daily; refer to owners manual for proper maintenance procedure

 
                                          



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